F.A.Q. By Doug Blair
1.
Q: I have heard of the Savage smokeless muzzleloader. If you can use smokeless
powder in that gun why can't I use it in my muzzleloader?
2. Q: Why do I have
misfires when I first try to shoot my gun after I've cleaned it?
3. Q: Why do I have
misfires every once in a while?
4. Q: Why do I need
to change the vent liner? It looks like a larger hole through the vent would
produce better ignition.
5. Q: Why do I have to use anti seize grease on the threads of
the vent liner and breech plug?
6. Q: Why won't my gun shot the heavy loads most other shooters
are shooting without shredding the sabot?
7. Q: Why does the primer sometimes stick in the bolt face?
8. Q: Why does my accuracy "go out the window" if I shoot
my gun fast?
9. Q: I'm having major problems with my ML-10II accuracy I'd get 1-2 rnds
that would be dead on and then more flyers.The barrels cool, so what should
I check next?
1.
Q: I have heard of the Savage smokeless muzzleloader. If you can use smokeless
powder in that gun why can't I use it in my muzzleloader?
A: For one thing
is the design of the Savage muzzleloader. You have a vent liner that keeps
excessive pressures from entering the action of the gun. The design of all
other muzzleloaders won't allow high pressures that are encountered with smokeless
loads. Most "black powder" muzzleloaders are also made of milder steel and
won't stand high pressures. If you have seen a early firearm which was made
for smokeless powder you would have seen stamped on the barrel "smokeless
steel". There is a BIG difference between steels,
so don't chance trying to use smokeless powder in any gun which was not designed
for it.
2.
Q: Why do I have misfires when I first try to shoot my gun after I've cleaned
it?
A: You need to use a dry cleaning patch and remove any anti-seize and oil
which may be in the barrel. 9 times out of 10 if I try to load and shoot my
Savage without first firing a primer after cleaning with a dry patch first
I will have a misfire.
3.
Q: Why do I have misfires every once in a while?
A: Several things could cause this. A loose fitting bullet/sabot combination
will cause misfires. Weak or bad primers can cause misfires as well as not
seating the bullet/sabot firmly. Also some powders are harder to ignite and
the use of magnum primers should be used. Also a blocked breech plug or vent
liner could cause the gun to misfire. A worn vent liner will produce a weaker
ignition. If the vent liner hole is worn replace it with a new one. Really
cold (freezing or below) weather can warrant the use of a magnum primer especially
with a "ball" powder.
4.
Q: Why do I need to change the vent liner? It looks like a larger hole through
the vent would produce better ignition.
A: When the vent liner hole wears it will allow more pressure to come back
through the breech plug to the primer. A worn vent liner will also cause a
falloff in accuracy. The small hole through the vent liner condenses the fire
from the primer much like a magnifying glass will focus the light from the
sun to a point you can start a fire with it. The small hole in the vent liner
works in much the same way.
5.
Q: Why do I have to use anti seize grease on the threads of the vent liner
and breech plug?
A: This grease keeps the parts from seizing up. If the gun is fired without
using anti-seize you run the risk of locking the parts together to where they
will be almost impossible to remove them from one another. You will need to
remove the breech plug from time to time to clean it as well as the gun itself
and clean/change the vent liner.
6.
Q: Why won't my gun shot the heavy loads most other shooters are shooting
without shredding the sabot?
A: A rough barrel will shred a sabot with a lighter load than a smooth barrel
will. You may need to lap the bore with J-B compound. The more the Savage
muzzleloader is shot the heavier loads it will use without shredding sabots.
As the barrel gets smoother the accuracy will also be better. At least this
has been my experience.
7.
Q: Why does the primer sometimes stick in the bolt face?
A: A primer will sometimes stick in the bolt face when you are only snapping
a primer to clean the breech plug. A light load will also make a primer stick
as well as a dirty breech plug. You may need to clean the breech plug "chamber"
where the primer goes into it. Clean the breech plug and use a heavier load.
8. Q: Why does my accuracy "go out the window" if I shoot
my gun fast?
A: The barrel heats up. This makes the sabot soft and it won't stand as much
pressure before it blows. Don't shoot the gun fast enough to make the barrel
get warm. Wait between shots to let the barrel cool before loading the next
shot especially in hot weather. You may also find that in hot weather you
may have to back off on your powder charge to keep your accuracy.
9.
Q: I'm having major problems with my ML-10II accuracy I'd get 1-2 rnds that
would be dead on and then more flyers.The barrels cool, so what should I check?
A:First--Try a new vent liner, If it gets worn (as in a
larger hole) then the accuracy will suffer. (provided by blue-dot-37.5)
Second--Check
that the scope mount screws are correctly tight. The surefire way to
know that the front base screw IS tight is to remove the scope from the rifle.
1) With NO base, count EXACTLY how many turns it takes to bottom out the screw.
2) Now WITH the base installed on the rifle, count how many turns it takes
to tighten the screw.
3) The number of turns MUST BE LESS by at least 1/2 turn. It can't be the
same or you are bottoming the threads and NOT the scope base!!! ( I use 1
full turn less, because when you torque the screw it WILL stretch. ) I also
agree that, while you have the scope off, see what kind of a group you can
get with open sights. If you are within a few inches then the problem IS the
scope. (provided by Edge)
Third--You
may want to check the forearm of the stock to see if you are getting any unusual
conact or pressure points. If you are you may want to sand these spots out
until you get some kind of free float. (provided by 1SHOT-1KILL)
More-- Also, this works for
me, when you back the rear action screw off to remove the bolt, before you
back that rear screw off, back the front action screw off about 1/2-3/4 turn.
Then snug both screws up, alternating between the two, a little at a time
until you get them tight. I've found that about 50 inch pounds is all it takes.
I think 65 is recommended, but that seems to be a little to tight for me,
as the screws seem to stretch a tad.
(provided by 1SHOT-1KILL)
Finally--Make sure your seating seating the bullet all the way to the
bottom of the sabot cup.(provided by 1SHOT-1KILL)
(more to come)