Shooting from a bench.
Written by Randy Dunn and Dwight Scifres
Preparation
When sighting your Savage 10 ML in there are so many things that can make
it shoot poor. Finding the load for the gun is one of the most important
things. You will need to spend some time and money on this. You might have
a buddy with a different type of sabot and some different bullets that you
can
swap them for to test out. That way you don't have to buy a whole box or bag
of bullets and sabots you can't use. Otherwise start with the standard
Savage recommended loads (and might as well get a bag of MMP and Hornady Sabots,
when you purchase your powder and Bullets). You also might visit Dougs Savage
muzzleloader message board for some load development help. Also keep in mind
the load you use may be dependent on what type of ventliner you have. Some
loads perform better with the one hole liner then the three hole liner and
vice versa. Believe me, I've went
through a lot of different combinations for my 10MLs before I found their
"pet load" but ended up with great results. This web sight has or
will have
articles for common problems you might notice along the way, written by
folks like you and me, some are avid shooters, some are professionals, and
some are just having fun shooting or getting ready for the chance of
harvesting "the big one".
Bench Shooting
The first thing you should do is preparation, you've got to make sure that the problems you might have are not because of you. So let’s start from the ground up.
The Range
Some folks are fortunate
to have enough property to set up a rifle range. Remember that the Savage
10ML is THE MOST POWERFUL CONSUMER MUZZLE LOADER ON THE MARKET, period,
no matter what the other companies say. They can't use smokeless powder. That
being said; please be SURE of what's down range.
Safety is EVERYTHING!
Be aware that the down range conditions can change in an instant; always check
to be sure it is SAFE.
Allthough most of
the available bullets for the 10ML are built like "lead beer cans",
there are some newer bullets that have improved ballistics. This makes it
critical that we have a safe backstop at all times. One of the newer developments
in bullet/sabot/load combinations give this rifle a maximum range of over
two miles. Maximum range being the furthest distance a projectile can travel
when the rifle is fired at the optimum angle. So always have a safe backstop
capable of stopping a high velocity projectile, just as you would when firing
any centerfire rifle, and make sure the downrange area is clear before firing.
Safety. Safety. Safety.
Location
Having a natural wind
block like a hedge or wooded area along the range is
nice. But nature has a way of messing things up so walk the range first, I'
ve had several doe just walk out and start eating right in front of my 200
yard targets, right after I put up a fresh set of targets. (Out of season,
they got to eat all they wanted!)
Try to find a level
spot for your shooting position. I'm fortunate in that
down range of my 250-300 yard targets there is the beginning of a small hill
that rises about 80 feet when you get out to 700 yards and goes out 1500
yards. But my bench area is level and firm.
The Bench
You want a solid, stable, and level bench that has enough room to set up your gear and still allow you to get into a good shooting position. Make sure it is something that will not move if you lean into it. There are a variety of benches you can purchase on the market. There are also several places on the Internet you can find plans to build one yourself if your good with tools. A heavy wooden picnic table will do if you have one. Dwight has a super stout bench he constructed from a cast off metal frame salvaged from a manufacturing plant. He simply made a few modifications with his welder and poured the top and seat out of concrete. I've seen some shooting benches that were molded concrete.You just can't make a stationary bench "too stable". It's also important to get a chair or stool that you can adjust the height of, and is comfortable. When shooting "heavy" or "hot" loads, try to sit at the bench keeping your torso vertical (no leaning forward) with feet spread for comfortable bracing and support. "Upright and comfortable" are the things to remember about your position at the bench. Always try to sit the same way every time you sit down to shoot. Remind yourself about this until it just happens.
The GUN rest
There are leather or fabric "shooting" bags made just for this. The bags are filled with sand or other filler, one is placed beneath the forearm of your Savage 10ML and the other rests beneath the butt of the stock. You can also get small ones for the front that attach to an adjustable rest. You want to bring the forearm rest back to midpoint of the forearm under the stock. Not holding or touching the barrel. You can make your own bags out of a pair of old blue jeans, and some sand. A neat "toe bag" for the butt end of the rifle can be made simply by filling a sock about 1/3 of the way with sand and tying a knot in it. This is an old snipers trick.
Safety!
Eye and ear protection are a must! And worth EVERY PENNY YOU SPEND. Think about it; are your eyes worth the price of a decent pair of Safety/shooting glasses? How much are your ears worth? Get the right gear. Also using proper hearing protection can help in preventing a flinch. Some shooters even use double hearing protection for this very reason. Ear plugs worn under muffs. This also helps with concentrating on the shot.
Position
Remember what I said about "Upright and comfortable" before? This is important. You want to be sure that you remove all of the variables that can make a inconsistent or "wild" shot in a group. You want to be a "shooting machine" everything the same, every time. This takes practice and an open mind. So with the gun UNLOADED try this:
Shoulder the empty (unloaded) 10ML with the midpoint of its forearm on the front rest or bag and while looking through scope, see if your 10MLs height from the bench is comfortable and the view through the scope of the target is centered. If it isn't, move the sandbag under the rifle butt first (don't let the gun touch the bench), if that's not enough adjust the front bag a bit. You might need to put something on the bench for your elbow and arm to get the height right. You want to fit into the gun, rests, and bench like it was made just for you. The main thing in shooting from a bench or any postion for that matter is finding the correct Natural Point of Aim, (NPA). Natural point of aim from the bench occurs when the sights/crosshairs rest naturally on the desired aiming point on the target without you having to exert force on the rifle. This is why it is so important to take your time in "building your rest" .
You're going to "pretend its loaded" and "dry fire" a few times. You'll see some movement in the scope at first. Your goal will be to get the cross hairs to end up at the place they were before the trigger was pulled after the trigger breaks or fires. Now is the time to check for correct NPA. The best way to do this is to get in shooting position and acquire the correct sight alignment and sight picture just as if you were going to fire a shot. Now close your eyes. Take a deep breath and let it out to your Point of Natural Respiratory Pause, (PNRP). Now open your eyes, the sight should still be centered. If it is not, you have not acquired correct NPA. You need to adjust your rest and or position until you can perform the above test for NPA and the sight is still centered on the target when you open your eyes. It pays to be real picky here as to what you will accept, as it will aid you greatly in firing tight groups. Now go ahead and dry fire a few times to get used to the trigger and feel of the rifle.
It's good to place your cheek on the same spot on the stock so your eye is centered in line with the scope. You want to do this with out forcing your head up off the stock so your eye is in line with the center of the scope. This way, it's the same every time (it's called stock weld). There are attachable after market cheek pads you can put on your guns stock to put your eye in the right place every time and achieve proper "stock weld". Your eye should stay centered behind the scope/rear sight at the same distance for every shot. This is what we call obtaining proper eye relief. Once this is obtained and you are comfortable with it, you can use a piece of tape to mark the proper place on the stock to place your cheek. This helps you to be repeatable and consistent, which of course is our goal.
Proper Grip of the firing hand
Proper grip of the firing hand allows the shot to be fired without pulling the shot. A proper grip is established by taking a fairly "high" grip on the stock with firm, but not rigid pressure. The stock is pulled firmly into the shoulder buy not "steered" thereby affecting our NPA. This also helps reduce some of the negative effects of recoil. The trigger finger should not make contact with the stock. It should make contact with the trigger with the center or tip of the first pad of the finger, not in the joint area of the finger. This helps us make a straight back pull, gives one a better feel for the trigger, and promotes good trigger control.
With your other hand you can adjust the rear bag to keep you on target, that is its job, remember keep it off the forearm and on the bag. Now for the shot. With the proper grip of the firing hand established it is simply a matter of applying pressure with the trigger finger until the rifle fires. By having a firm grip and avoiding contact with the trigger finger on the stock, a deliberate, slow, straight back pull can be accomplished.
Get up, stretch out, loosen up, and now load up your 10ML. (Did I say safety yet?)
Shooting from the bench
Now you're going to do the same as above, but with a live load. Relax, this is the fun part!
Repetition is the key, if you're concentrating on the bulls-eye and go through the above steps the same each time you shoot, you'll shoot the same each time. You should be able to tell where the cross hairs were when the gun went off and figure out where the shot went, the second it went. This is called "calling the shot" A log can be started to keep track of where your call is in relation to your actual point of impact. This can be of great use in detecting trends that arise from but not limited too, weather conditions, sight adjustments, load development, and shooter error. Follow through is important also. The gun will jump a bit. Let it. As long as it does it the same each time it won't matter. If you try to hold it down by griping the forearm you'll have to hold it exactly the same way every time, this is almost impossible, as you get tired you'll let it twist in tiny amounts.
Just to prove this (and a good reminder to myself) I went out to my range
and tested this. In the photo below you'll see what looks like 3 holes (click
on it to make it bigger). It's really 4 holes. I shot 4 times alternating
between not touching the forearm (letting the barrel hop on the sand bags)
and then trying to hold it down. The gun was sighted in letting it jump. The
two touching holes are from letting it hop, like I did when sighting this
load in, the other two are from trying to hold it down, you can see the effect
this has well.
This is also a good
time to mention the integrated act of firing. While we won't take the time
to discuss this in great detail the following acronym maybe be helpful to
you in remembering the proper sequence to follow when firing the shot. BRASS
or Breath, Release, Aim, Stop, Squeeze To break it down a little further.
Breath- take a deep breath or two to help relax, get mentally prepared for
the shot, and to oxygenate the body which also helps sharpen the vision a
little. Release- Release the breath to your point of natural respiratory pause.
Aim- this is just dressing it up a little for the actual shot, since you established
a correct NPA and we are shooting form a bench in this discussion, major changes
should not be neccesary at this point. Stop- Stop all movement, Will the body
to be still, concentrate on the sight alignment/sight picture. Squeeze- A
deliberate straight back pull of the trigger, steady and even until the rifle
fires.
Gotcha
One of the most common mistakes made by shooters when firing from the bench is what is called by target shooters "laying on the gun". This is looking down the scope/sights too long before firing the shot. Using the integrated act of firing new shooters should fire the shot in 10-15 seconds. An experienced shooter will fire the shot in 6-9 seconds. The main problem that occurs with laying on the gun too long is that the eye will get an image burned into the retina after about 15 seconds. This will prevent the shooter from detecting a small error in sight alignment which will lead to stray shots. Also laying on the gun will introduce body tremors and anxiety over the shot. This is another reason why it is so important to establish a correct NPA and the proper integrated act of firing. When the shot is good, let it go.
Flinching
The Savage can "kick like a mule" with the hotter and heavier loads. And it' s easy with this gun to anticipate the kick and flinch. A "gel" shoulder pad will help as will a sandbag or some other sort of pad placed between the shoulder and the rifle. Using proper grip, stock weld,relaxing with the shot, "rolling with the recoil", keeping your head down on the stock will help. But the first thing you need to do is get up, stretch, get a drink of water, and take a breather. Next you might want to practice the dry-fire routine (Big squeeze, cheek down, eye on target, breath, long squeeze) a few times. Some try to "like" the kick, and try to "look forward" to it. But it is better to refine your technique to help reduce the effects of recoil. It never hurts to take a break when the recoil becomes a problem.